Choosing the Right Pipes and Plumbing System for Log Cabin
Galvanized steel pipe is usually used for the line from your well to the pump. There is another type of pipe that can be used on the cold water services of your system. This pipe is made of polyethylene. It looks like a garden hose but is many times stronger. It has the advantage of being much more flexible and lighter than any of the rigid types. Never use this type of pipe on hot-water lines.
One cubic foot of storage space holds 7.48 gallons. The capacity of a round container is 1/2 the diameter multiplied by itself X 3.14 X the depth X 7.48. If a cistern is 10 feet in diameter and 6 feet deep, the capacity is (5 X 5 X 3.14 X 6 X 7.48) 3,523.08 gallons. Sea level: In talking about the lift of various pumps, I have said that certain pumps would be satisfactory if the water level was within 22 feet of the surface of the earth.
Such a pump would lose about I foot of suction lift for each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level. If the altitude at your camp site is 2,000 feet, a shallow-well pump will have to be located within 20 feet vertical distance from the working normal water level, instead of 22 feet.
As you would expect, cottages include space for bathrooms. Some camps show a shower instead of a tub. The plumbing problems are similar for all the camps.
Where to Build the Log Cabin Plumbing System
The locality in which you build may have some special requirements. Do check with local authorities. You may decide to have the local plumber install all your piping and fixtures. If so, you probably aren't interested in this section. But if you have decided to turn plumber, the description below should be helpful.
All the necessary parts can be bought from your local plumbing dealer, or from the major mail-order houses. It is also possible to rent the necessary tools. Where do we start? If I were doing the job, I'd start with the fitting that drains the seat and tub. On the floor of the bathroom mark where this fitting (I) is to go.
Most seats measure 14 inches or less from the back of the tank to the center of the closet bowl. Cut a hole large enough to take the small end of the closet collar. Install this fitting permanently in position with the closet bend sticking up to within 1/2 to % inches of the floor surface. It will be necessary to support the fitting with wood or metal hangers.
The stack base (part 2) is usually connected to part I. Sometimes it is necessary to add an extension piece if the stack base is to be located in a basement or if your camp is on a steep hillside. The stack base has two tappings: to one you can connect the drain from the shower or tub; to the other you can connect the kitchen sink drain, if necessary. If concrete slab is used, pipes below floor level must be installed before slab is poured.
Calking the joints is done by packing them with strands of oakum. A yarning iron is helpful in getting the oakum well pushed down. When the joint is about two-thirds full, hammer it all down tight. Fill the remainder of the opening with molten lead.
When the lead is cooler but not set, tap lightly around the hub. When it is cool, pound with more force. The stack base end should point toward your septic tank or sewer. I would install the lavatory basin next. Part 3 goes on top of part I. You'll find that this fitting will slip up and down in part I. This allows you to adjust the height of the lavatory basin.
This fitting has three tappings. One is for the lavatory basin, the second is for the kitchen sink, and the third for laundry tubs if there are any. Close any unused tappings with cast-iron plugs. Before calking fitting 3, mark on the wall where the waste pipe from each fixture will enter the wall.
Adjust the height of part 3 so that the height of the lower tapping is at the same height as the lowest waste pipe. Then lower part 3 about 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run to allow for drainage. You are now ready to calk this fitting as you did parts I and 2.
The next step is to install the vent pipe. Measure the distance from the top of part 3 to about I foot above the roof. Cut and thread the pipe and screw it into the lavatory fitting 3. Some systems use an increaser at the top of this pipe. If you are going to use the cottage only during the summer, the increaser is an unnecessary part.
Use a standard vent-pipe flashing around the top of the pipe. You're over the worst of it now. The only thing left to do is to run the various pipes from the fixtures to parts I and 3. Drum trap (4) should be installed below the floor, trap cover down, between the tub or shower and the closet-tub fitting (I).
Where it is necessary to make turns in the drainage lines, use 90-degree fittings. To install the seat, place the closet bolts in the closet collar so that the threaded ends extend upward through the flange. Set the collar in the floor over the top of the closet bend and calk in place (5, 6, and 7). The asbestos gasket that comes with the seat should be put over the closet bottom outlet, the seat moved into place, and the nuts tightened.
There is the drainage system of your cottage--except for the disposal unit. If there is a central disposal system or sewer that you can use, it is probable that the connections to it will have to be made by a licensed plumber. On the other hand, if you are going to install a septic tank, you will want to read on into the next section to find out what to do.
About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com. These two sites work collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for building a log home or choosing a house plan.
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